Fleas Control Services

FLEA BITES- FLEAS TEND TO FEED AT ANKLES, LOWER LEGS, WRISTS AND TORSO

HEALTH AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:

OUR TREATMENT METHODS ARE SAFE TO USE, AS WE FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTION OF PRODUCTS BEING APPLIED, RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURES.

  • REMOVE CLUTTER FROM AREA TO BE TREATED.
  • ALL AFFECTED PETS SHOULD BE TREATED AND REMOVED.
  • COVER FISH TANKS AND TURN OFF PUMP.
  • COVER ANY OTHER ITEMS NECESSARY TO PREVENT OVER SPRAY FROM SETTLING ON UNWANTED SURFACES.
  • YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO VACATE AREA BEING TREATED FOR UP TO THREE HOURS.

PREP AREA:

BY REMOVING CLUTTERS OF THE FLOORS AND LIFTING UP AS MUCH OF THE AREA TO BE TREATED. DUST, SWEEP, VACUUM AND MOP ALL SURFACE TO BE TREATED.

FLEAS

Fleas are parasites that feed on humans and other warm blooded animals. When you have a flea problem you and your pets serve as the host. A flea can jump 7 to 8 inches vertically and 14 to 16 inches horizontally. A skin reaction to a flea bite appears as a slightly raised and red itchy spot. Sometimes these sores bleed. Fleas usually require warm and humid conditions to develop. Due to the flea life cycle and feeding habits, many people don’t realize they have a flea problem until they are away from their house for an extended period of time. This happens because the fleas get hungry while the hosts are away and they become highly active when the hosts return. People tend to think putting the pet outside will solve the flea problem, but that typically makes the fleas turn to human hosts instead.

There are several types of fleas, but the most common is the cat flea, which also feeds on dogs and humans. Fleas are attracted to body heat, movement, and exhaled carbon dioxide. The average flea ranges in size from 2.5mm long. Fleas are very small and have no wings. Their bodies are narrow if viewed from the sides. Slender fleas can get into and move around in narrow areas. Adult fleas feed on blood and the larvae eat “flea diet” consisting of dried blood.

Habits and Biology of Fleas:

Fleas go through a complete metamorphosis. There are four distinct stages: eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult. Flea eggs are laid on the host or are deposited on the floor or ground. They are often found in upholstery or pet’s bedding. A female flea will continue to lay a few eggs every day until she has yielded up to 200 to 400 eggs. These eggs will develop into flea larvae within 2 days to several weeks, depending on the temperature and humidity. Flea larvae are active and look like maggots. The larvae will feed on organic debris, but particularly like to feed on feces of the adult fleas. This “flea diet” contains undigested blood. The flea larvae are hard to spot and are found deep in the carpets or the cracks and crevices of floors and upholstery. They are very difficult to vacuum, because they get entwined in the carpet fibers. The next stage, called the pupae look like a cocoon, also hard to spot. Under warm conditions many adult fleas will emerge from this protective cocoon within 7 to 14 days, longer under less favorable conditions.

Whenever you see adult fleas crawling on your pet, it is only a symptom of a much larger problem. Current studies indicate that adult fleas account for only 5% of the total flea population in any given situation. Eggs account for 50%, larvae account for about 35%, and the remaining 10% are the pupa cocoons. That means that for every single adult flea living on your dog or cat, there are 10 eggs, 7 larvae, and 2 cocoons.

These various life cycle stages will be found anywhere in the pet’s environment, but will be most concentrated in the areas that the pet spends most of its time, like the pet’s bed area. Remember, when the adult flea lays an egg on the pet, it will fall off the hairs in just a few minutes, similar to sowing seeds. If the pet usually walks through certain paths (either indoors or outdoors), there will also be a substantial amount of eggs scattered in those areas. What this means is that environmental flea control must be spread over the pet’s entire environment, focusing on the areas the pet spends the majority of his or her time. The sleeping areas and walking paths are the most important areas.

Treatment

The best time to start a flea control program is in the late spring, prior to an infestation, since adult fleas comprise only 5% of the total flea population. To contain an infestation, fleas must be controlled at every stage.

Interior Treatment:

Our treatment methods are using a residual insecticide concentrate to controls the adult flea and combining it with an insect growth regulator prevents the larvae from developing. This method lasts 4-6 months. Treating carpeted and floors cracks and crevices.

Expect to continue seeing fleas the first month. These are pupa that continues to emerge. Results from the growth inhibitor cannot be judged for about four weeks after initial treatment. Re-treatment with the residual insecticide will probably be necessary during the first 30 days.
The growth inhibitor will last on average about 4 months, and can last 6 to 7 months.
Even sprays that contain insecticides and growth inhibitors have difficulty penetrating the pupae cocoon. Flea larva that has entered a cocoon state will require follow up applications of the insecticides after they hatch. This is usually a 3 or 4 week process.

Exterior Treatment:

Our treatment method is using granules and liquid concentrates around lawn subfloors and areas frequented by pets.

Treating for Fleas on Your Pet

If possible, consult your vet about the health and skin condition of your pet prior to treatment. Begin flea control on the pet by using a mild shampoo and a sponge-type flea dip, flea spray, or flea shampoo.